While it takes a few pitches to learn and get completely used to, soon enough, this technique becomes pretty simple. View all posts by Monte Johnston. The … Rappelling in assisted braking mode, as we are here, is not our favorite because holding the thumb loop upward in the right place is tiring and hard to stay in the sweet spot without jerking. It’s less noticeable when belaying from below, but more on that in the belay performance section below. Rappelling in manual mode is by far the easiest and smoothest, although we like that we can rappel in assist mode if we don't have a backup on our harness and want one. While the Mega Jul introduced several cool and unique features, the fact is that most people don't enjoy using it because it is too small and therefore has way too much friction from the rope unavoidably built into its use, making it effortful and annoying compared to the competition. The first few times while switching modes, I had to pay close attention to the diagrams on the device. Découvrez le concept du GIGA … We most often lowered climbers in assist mode, because that is how we usually belayed them. It is designed to be used with ropes in the range of 7.1mm-10mm and using fatter, thicker ropes can become problematic in assisted braking mode, as the angles are no longer correct to provide the assist, allowing for some rope slippage. Our sample’s verified weight is 4.4 ounces and it is roughly twice as big as a Mega Jul. The performance of a belay device is heavily influenced by the diameter and condition of the climbing rope used. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a … The Half and Twin ropes that I tested with the Giga Jul worked quite well though. Le partage est privé, seuls les membres de votre réseau peuvent voir vos fichiers. The Jul … If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. It can also be hung off the anchor to belay a second in auto-block mode. L'appareil est suffisamment confortable, simple et sécurisant pour le mettre aux mains des … Small eyelet for releasing unit with a … After six months of use we give the verdict here, especially with a view to how it suits UK trad climbing. Now that we know how it works, let’s look into how well (or not) it works. We also found that if we belayed with a carabiner that wasn't round, such as the I-beam stock Black Diamond Vaporlock Magnetron, there was way more friction and rope didn't pay out smoothly at all, so be sure to pair it with a round stock pear-shaped HMS carabiner. Compare. One demerit to Edelrid for nearly doubling the weight from the Mega Jul (120g vs 65g, respectively). For rappelling, we preferred using manual mode with a prussik backup, as this is far and away the smoothest way to rappel, and feels just like any other tube-style device. The Giga Jul can replace both your guide ATC and auto-locking device (like your grigri) all while still being able to do every action you need while climbing. Its increased durability also adds to the value. The hole seen here at the bottom of the device is for clipping a carabiner nose to in order to use it as a lever arm when lowering or rappelling in assist mode or auto-block mode. One must loop their thumb through a special thumb loop, and then hold this loop up and out, away from the carabiner, to prevent the device from locking and keep the rope feeding smoothly. All trademarks property of their respective owners Compared to assisted braking modes and devices, this way of belaying requires the most effort and sustained gripping of the brake strand. Traductions [modifier le wikicode] Unité de … In terms of function, we found that while there is less friction that the belayer must overcome than with the Mega Jul, there is still a whole lot more than with active assist belay devices. Extremely abrasion-resistant. Shown here in manual mode, it works just like a standard tube style device. On our independent scale the Giga Jul weighted 4.3 ounces, which is pretty light, but a fair bit heavier than comparable devices we compared it against. It really shines in the assisted brake mode though! In brake assist mode, feeding slack requires learning a different technique. A modified tube-style belay device, the Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. However, if I’m using a single rope I’ll also bring a stitch plate so I don’t need the Giga Jul for belaying my second up. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Three belay modes in on device, affordable, stainless steel inserts for greater longevity, Slightly heavier than competitors, assisted braking mode requires learning a new belay technique. With the other hand, the belayer pulls slack through the device. The green slider simply needs to be moved to switch between the two. Shown here for size comparison, the Giga Jul on the left against the BD ATC Guide on the right, which is a bit smaller, and a fair bit lighter, but doesn't have the option of being used in assisted braking mode, and also doesn't have stainless steel inserts for greater longevity. Although you must still hold onto the brake strand, the braking assist does most of the work, effectively locking the device when the climber falls, and easily holding their weight as they rest, requiring minimal sustained gripping or effort on the belayer's part. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Got feedback? Also worth noting, will steel construction where the rope wears this device will last you far longer than aluminum counterparts (especially if you are in sandy climbing … Because of the way the carabiner sits in a small cut-out of the side, the extra carabiner actually pulls the rope out further and reduces friction while defeating the assisted brake. When loaded, most of the weight is transferred to the spine of the carabiner making them stronger than most other shapes. The value of this device is due largely to the fact that you can use it in three different modes. In this mode, it works much like the other tube-style auto-block devices, and while it is very effective at locking off the seconders rope, there is a fair amount of friction built into the system. Quantity : Reference Unit : is equal to : Conversion Factor : Unit : 1: gigajoule = 1 : gigajoule: 1 = 1000 : megajoule: 1 = 1000000 : kilojoule: 1 = 1000000000 Shown here is the slider bar, in yellow, that you move from one side of the device to the other in order to change modes. The Joe Brown Shops (Est 1966) and The Climbers Shop (Est 1959) With over 100 years of retail heritage our shops are incredibly proud to offer a huge choice of clothing … Lead or top-rope belaying with the Giga Jul can be done in either assisted braking or manual mode. no rating given just a review. Each mode has a corresponding diagram on either side of the device to indicate the direction the rope should be loaded. One of the great things about the Giga Jul is that it’s quite intuitive and easy to use, not a bad option so long as you’re climbing on skinny lines. This means that the high-wear areas are quite abrasion resistant though a bit on the heavy side. As a top pick with lots of versatility, we think it makes a great value purchase. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. Please note that these values are only … The range is now exclusively assisted-braking only, hence the original Jul is no longer available. However, we did notice that when you pull some slack back in through the device, you take your thumb out of the loop to do so, and then must look down, away from your climber, to find the thumb loop once again. A slider bar along the top of the device must be positioned all the way on either end, denoting either manual or assisted mode, and then the rope must be loaded into the device in the correct manner depending on the mode, which is different for each. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. The Giga Jul is the latest in Edelrid’s assisted braking device range. TR and Lead Belay in Assisted Brake Mode: Flip the switch to the “A” position and rotate the device around and it’s in the assisted brake mode. Also, feeding rope while in brake-assist … GearLab is reader-supported. It’s not without a few drawbacks though. (function($) {window.fnames = new Array(); window.ftypes = new Array();fnames[0]='EMAIL';ftypes[0]='email';fnames[1]='FNAME';ftypes[1]='text';fnames[2]='LNAME';ftypes[2]='text';fnames[7]='MMERGE7';ftypes[7]='dropdown';}(jQuery));var $mcj = jQuery.noConflict(true); Review: Mammut Taiss Mountaineering Boots, BD ATC Alpine Guide (half and twin ropes), Type: Tube-Style Belay Device with Optional Assisted Braking, Micro Jul: designed for half and twin ropes, Mega Jul Sport: designed for sport climbing with thicker single ropes. Traditional in the sense that it can operate the same as the ever popular ATC or Reverso. How many giga joule in 1 kilojoule? The green slider simply needs to be moved to switch between the two. The device will likely outlast any traditional all-aluminum belay device but won’t last as long as an all-steel unit like the Mega Jul. It caught up and … The prefix giga is derived from the Greek γίγας meaning giant and is symbolized as G. Giga denotes a factor of a billion which means that there are 1,000,000,000 joules in a … You can gamble on something new that requires a bit of re-education or stick with what you already know. It is also very large in size compared to the Mega Jul. The symbol for gigajoule is GJ. PRODUCT INFORMATION. * measured midway along slot as shown in photo. Editor in Chief at Black Sheep Adventure Sports. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, An incredibly versatile device that allows for every style of belay you would need on a multi-pitch climb. Giga (symbole G) est le préfixe du Système international d'unités qui représente 10 9, soit un milliard de fois l'unité qui suit. As with the other belay modes, half and twin ropes did not experience any additional drag issues, but of course they’re much thinner at 7.3 to 8.2mm instead of 8.7 to 9.5mm single ropes. The added toggle switch adds a little bit of weight, but the main difference is in the stainless steel inserts in high wear areas, that ensure a longer life span for the Giga Jul. This includes when it’s used for belaying normally from the bottom of a pitch, when used in guide-mode / top-down belay and even when rappelling. The lighter auto-block devices don't have that and are sure to wear out a bit quicker, so the added weight comes with the benefit of increased durability. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. The Giga Jul combines the tried and true mechanics of a tube style belay device, and incorporates an auto-locking function that can be used with the slide of a switch. 737420006630 Weight: 121 g The most versatile ever belay device. Feeding slack in manual mode with the Giga Jul is exactly like with any other tube-style device and uses the same techniques. While it does cost a fair bit more than standard auto-block devices, we think the added expense is worth it, considering you also get assisted braking. The thicker and fuzzier a rope is, the more friction that’s developed through a belay device. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. This makes it incredibly easy and intuitive for people transitioning from a more standard, tube-style device. Un groupe international conduit par des chercheurs du GIGA et du CHU a découvert comment un récepteur de fonction inconnue, GPR101, stimule puissamment la sécrétion d’hormone de croissance et conduit au gigantisme. First impressions. Claimed Weight: 4.27oz Recommended Use: climbing Customers who viewed this item also viewed. The definition of a joule is as follows: The joule (symbol J, also called newton meter, watt second, or coulomb volt) is the SI unit of energy and work. With a single rope the device feeds out rope fairly well but taking in slack is less smooth as the rope rubs on the bottom edge of the side plates increasing friction. In terms of bulk, it is a little bit larger than other auto-block devices, but certainly not by much. We like how the device is ambidextrous, so lefties can use it just as easily as righties. Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison. Guide mode. The catch and bit provided by the Giga Jul in assisted braking mode is very effective at stopping the rope firmly in place, and holding it there as the climber rests. I think this is due to the sharp, non-beveled edges along the top of the side plates. The Giga Jul weighs 4.3 ounces, which isn't too heavy but is almost double the weight of some other auto-block belay devices designed for multi-pitching. S’inscrire ici. PRODUCT INFORMATION . Reproduction without permission is prohibited. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. This is the smoothest way to feed slack, and also the least likely for a belayer to accidentally short rope their leader. The Giga Jul addressed these problems by being a bit bigger and allowing more space for ropes to run with slightly less friction and is, therefore, easier to use. Molecular Weight; Discussion Forum ›› Convert gigajoule to kilojoule. Of course this means that the friction will slowly improve over time as these edges get worn through use. Luckily, there are the standard hand and climber pictures on each side of the device to denote which way to load it properly. Set up in auto-block mode hanging directly off the anchor requires using the additional carabiner hole at the top of the device, and loading the device the same as you would for manual mode. Starting with the very basic single rope sport Jul device, various superlatives have been added to the name as more technical devices were developed. Rappelling laps with the Giga Jul to test all of the different ways and modes of rappelling to decide which works the best. However, the same side-rubbing issue is found when taking in slack using a single rope, making it a bit less smooth. This means that when rappelling the Giga Jul has to be activated to descend or to feed slack when belaying. Being able to rappel double strands in either manual mode with a backup, or in assist mode, as we are testing here, is one of the many versatile ways to use this device. The Edelrid Giga Jul can work both as a standard tuber belay device and an assisted braking device, so you can abseil with this device. Un outil pour tout faire : rappel, assurage à double, jumelée ou à simple. For some people this may well be a deal breaker. The Giga Jul is our favorite device for multi-pitching because it has three different modes cleverly built into one small, affordable, and simple device. However, different belay devices offer different geometries which means that they have different sweet spots when it comes to rope diameter. The Giga Jul weighs 4.3 ounces, which isn't too heavy but is almost double the weight of some other auto-block belay devices designed for multi-pitching. Si vous perdez votre mot de passe, nous ne pourrons ni le renvoyer ni le réinitialiser. While you can belay, lower, or rappel in either assisted or manual modes, we most often found ourselves lead belaying in assisted mode, belaying the second using the auto-block, and rappelling in manual with a prussik backup. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. The Giga Jul costs roughly the same as other passive assist belay devices, many of which do not allow for two ropes and are not ideal for multi-pitching. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Tech specs. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one.